You just bought a bran new pair of jeans and you know that these are the one you were looking for for century!!!!!
And you would like to have the pattern so you make one or two exactly the same?
Or you can do them in another fabric, or color?
So here is my way of doing so!
First here is the starting point a jeans bought at AllSAINTS, these are gray denim with a low crotch style,a twisted seam and a narrow leg.
So let's start!
Here is the jeans laying flat, as you can see the leg is kind of weird for a pant that is why I chose these ones...
On almost all kind of fabric if you look carefully, you can see the grain line of the fabric, here I ''Marked'' with a needle and white thread the grain line of the front panel and I did the same for the back panel also.
Now, take a piece of paper, it needs to be big enough to do the entire piece of pattern for the front leg. I like to place it on top of a towel or something similar, it makes a kind of cushion underneath so we'll be able to make tiny holes with a pin or a needles roller. Oh and dont do this on you nice kitchen table....your mother will be very angry at you and you won't like if that happens...
With a pencil and a yard, draw a line, this will be your grain line. Then place your jean on top of this line and pin the jeans here and there to match the 2 grain lines together.
Then start marking the contour of the jeans.
But you're asking what to do when the sewing goes under....
Here is my trick!
After marking the contour, with a pin I marked the fold line of the fabric. And when i turn the bottom of the leg i can see how much fabric was folded underneath!!! I just need to mesure (in my case 1 inch) and add this inch to my pattern.
Do this every time your seam switch side!! For me the 2 sides were not the same
On the next picture I marked with a needlle the ''point where the seam is right on the edge of the folding.
Now the seam is on top, this is easy, you just need to use a needles roller, and pass over the seams.
Mark Everything you can mark with the needles roller. Don't forget to mark the end of the zipper
And the front pocket!
Now you can do the same for the back leg pattern.
So here is the end of part 1, part 2 is following...